Want more in the way of nightlife? All right, but be warned: The Venetian bar owners might sock it to you when they present the bill.

In addition to the specific recommendations below, you might barhop around San Francesco Vigna, where there are a plethora of local watering holes.

The single most famous of all the watering holes of Ernest Hemingway is Harry's Bar, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323 (tel. 041-5285777). Harry's is known for inventing its own drinks and exporting them around the world, and it's said that carpaccio, the delicate raw-beef dish, was invented here. Fans say that Harry's makes the best Bellini in the world, although many old-time visitors still prefer a vodka martini. (Even Hemingway ordered a Bellini here once, although later he called it a drink for sissies, suggesting that it might be ideal for Fitzgerald.) Harry's Bar is now found around the world, but this is the original (the others are unauthorized knockoffs). Celebrities frequent the place during the various film and art festivals. From April to October, Harry's is open daily 10:30am to 1am (to 11pm in winter).

Bar ai Speci, in the Hotel Panada, Calle dei Specchieri, San Marco 646 (tel. 041-5209088), is a charming corner bar only a short walk from St. Mark's. Its richly grained paneling is offset by dozens of antique mirrors whose glittering surfaces reflect the rows of champagne and scotch bottles and the clustered groups of Biedermeier chairs. It's open Monday to Saturday 5pm to midnight.

Bar Ducale, Calle delle Ostreghe, San Marco 2354 (tel. 041-5210002), occupies a tiny corner of a building near a bridge over a narrow canal. Customers stand at the zinc bar facing the carved 19th-century Gothic-reproduction shelves. Mimosas are the specialty, but tasty sandwiches are also offered. It's ideal for an early-evening cocktail as you stroll about. Bar Ducale is open daily 7:30am to 9pm.

For the best Americano (sweet vermouth, bitters, and soda), head for Bonifacio, Calle degli Albanesi, Castello 4237 (tel. 041-5227507), a bar off the beaten track. The Americano was said to have been invented in Venice. The version here costs far less than those at the bars closer to the San Marco area.

A stone's throw from the Rialto Bridge, Devil's Forest, Calle Stagneri, San Marco 5185 (tel. 041-5200623), is an authentic English pub where you'll find a comfortable balance between the English- and Italian-speaking worlds. A comforting roster of beers and ales is on tap (Guinness, Harp, Kilkenny, and a line of German beers). It's open daily 10am to midnight.

A rival of Devil's Forest, Hollandaise Volante (The Flying Dutchman), Campo San Lio, Castello 5658 (tel. 041-5289349), is another English-style pub with lots of wood paneling. A young, heavy-drinking crowd patronizes this place, mainly for beer, although fast food is also served.

Inishark Irish Pub, Calle Mondo Novo, Castello 5787 (tel. 041-5235300), is the most elegant Irish pub in Venice, drawing a diverse international crowd, mainly young. Between Campo S. Maria Formosa and Salizzada S. Lio, it is decorated with flea-market junk and is often a lot of fun. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 5:30pm to 2am, and it's closed for 20 days in August.

Bar Salus, Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 3112 (tel. 041-5285279), is our favorite gathering spot for a hot night in Venice's Greenwich Village, the Dorsoduro sector. Young people, both locals and visitors, predominate. This cafe has more outdoor seating than all its competitors. When the winds blow in from the Adriatic, you can retreat inside to comfortable booths in a spacious bar.

Cafe Blue, Calle Lunga S. Panalon, Dorsoduro 3778 (tel. 041-710227), is ground zero for Venice's expatriate community, including exchange students from around the world. Animated, often crowded, and brightly lit, it is the nerve center for the English-speaking community. Come here to find out what's happening in the city. Open Monday to Friday noon to 2am, and Saturday to Sunday 5pm to 2am.

Five minutes from the Rialto Bridge, Fiddler's Elbow, Corte dei Pali, Cannaregio 3847 (tel. 041-5239930), is called "the Irish pub" by the Venetians and is run by the same people who operate the equally popular Fiddler's Elbow in Florence and Rome. It has the only satellite TV in Venice with all channels: Sky, American, sports, music, whatever. In summer, there's live outdoor music. It's open daily 5pm to 12:30am.

Do Leoni is in the Londra Palace hotel, Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4171 (tel. 041-5200533). The interior is a rich blend of scarlet-and-gold carpeting with a lion motif, English pub-style furniture, and Louis XVI-style chairs. While sipping your cocktail, you'll enjoy a view of a 19th-century bronze statue, the lagoon, and the foot traffic along the Grand Canal. A piano player entertains Wednesday to Monday. Do Leoni is open daily 12:30 to 2:30pm and 7:30 to 10:30pm (the bar is open 10:30am-12:30am).

Venice's oldest pastry shop, Guanotto, Ponte del Lovo, San Marco 4819 (tel. 041-5208439), is a gelateria/pasticceria/bar. It's said to have virtually invented the spritzer, a combination of soda water, bitters, and white wine. Its drinks and cocktails are renowned, although enjoying a cappuccino here can take the chill off a rainy day. Guanotto is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 8:30pm, and Sunday noon to 8pm.